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Much of Coastal Florida was once this: a spring-fed wild river winding slowly through heavily forested coastal lowlands that finally arrive in treeless plains of grasses and mangrove islands leading to the open water of the Gulf. It’s called the Chassahowitzka National Wildlife Refuge. You’ll likely see more birds than people here including the elaborate array of wading birds that mark this zone where temperate and sub-tropical climates overlap. A boat or paddlecaft is required. Otherwise, you can’t get there from here.